Just a little chipping at the transom where the motor clamps on. Will touch up with sealer and paint in the spring.
Tampilkan postingan dengan label bolger. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label bolger. Tampilkan semua postingan
Minggu, 22 Mei 2016
Sabtu, 02 April 2016
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| From work skiff |
June of 2010
wow...I should have started this blog earlier. But here goes...This month I learned a couple of things regarding dos and donts.
1. Dont put polyurethane over fresh epoxy. The amine blush will prevent the polyurethane from ever setting up resulting in a very gummy mess. It took most of the month to scrape and bring all the varnished surfaces back to the glass and wood. Traditional spar varnish works great, and I will also add smells better than polyurethane.
2. The premise of building this skiff was to replace the Bolger Diablo that had gone to the Viking funeral two years ago. Lessons learned included using better wood and glassing both the inside and outside for easier maintenance. Granted the Diablo cost me under $1000 to build and the grand total for the Work skiff is around $3000. There is a LOT more wood and glass in this boat despite it only being 2 longer.
Additionally, I had planned to use the same motor, a 9.9hp 1990 Johnson motor. The mice in the shed had other plans. I took the motor to the shop for a tune up two weeks ago and the mechanic declared the motor dead. Mice had taken up residence in the intake and carburator and additionally the motor was not holding compression as one of the cylinders was leaking. They had built nests and deficated on everything, and eatin the wiring harness. After a cleaning, the motor still would not hold compression (bad rings?). At 20 + years the motor served me well and I will now replace it with a more recent 9.9. (The Horsepower limit on my local lake is 10 HP hence the motor choice). Even if I fixed the motor, I would not trust it. I will investigate more HP next year as I still need to get a trailer as well. IN retrospect, I would have chosen a different design had I known the motor was shot.
Minggu, 27 Maret 2016
2 pages of 3" fiberglass tape are laid across each joint. They are offset by an inch to taper across the panel joint. Plastic is put between layers to keep it from sticking. The clamps provide a little pressure to keep it all flat.
There is a heat lamp hanging above this assembly as it is a little cold in the basement. I have on hand a gallon of West Resin and slow hardener. It just involves a little patience and keeping things warm for a few hours.
Net result was a strong sandable joint. Will be carefull not to sand too deeply as that would defeat the purpose. Just enough to "pretty it up" and leave a good surface to apply a light layer of fiberglass cloth to.
I plan on using strippers cloth on the inside to protect the surface, and going with a 6 oz cloth on the exterior. This worked well on the Work Skiff and left me with an easily maintained surface that is strong and durable. I plan on trout fishing from this boat, so a surface that cleans well is essential.
There is a heat lamp hanging above this assembly as it is a little cold in the basement. I have on hand a gallon of West Resin and slow hardener. It just involves a little patience and keeping things warm for a few hours.
Net result was a strong sandable joint. Will be carefull not to sand too deeply as that would defeat the purpose. Just enough to "pretty it up" and leave a good surface to apply a light layer of fiberglass cloth to.
I plan on using strippers cloth on the inside to protect the surface, and going with a 6 oz cloth on the exterior. This worked well on the Work Skiff and left me with an easily maintained surface that is strong and durable. I plan on trout fishing from this boat, so a surface that cleans well is essential.
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